2015年4月16日 星期四

Thomas Carlyle's Sartor Resartus 裁縫哲學/Separates can still be smart

感謝RL提省 "請參考 tailleur 或許幫得上"
不過它提醒我一本Thomas Carlyle 的名著 " Sartor Resartus" -- 這本是李登輝先生那一輩的知識份子必讀的書 台灣也有漢譯本 (待找)

裁縫哲學 ,李約翰譯, 台北:阿爾泰出版社 ,1979【裝幀項】:19cm / 314頁

sartorial, sartorius, Sartor Resartus


(sär-tôr'ē-əl, -tōr'-) pronunciation
Of or relating to a tailor, tailoring, or tailored clothing: sartorial elegance.

[From Late Latin sartor, tailor. See sartorius.
圖: http://www.google.com.tw/images?client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Azh-TW%3Aofficial&hl=zh-TW&source=imghp&biw=1280&bih=835&q=sartorius&btnG=%E6%90%9C%E5%B0%8B%E5%9C%96%E7%89%87&gbv=2&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=

(sär-tôr'ē-əs, -tōr'-) pronunciation
n., pl., -to·ri·i (-tôr'ē-ī, -tōr'-).
A flat narrow thigh muscle, the longest of the human anatomy, crossing the front of the thigh obliquely from the hip to the inner side of the tibia.

[New Latin, from Late Latin sartor, tailor (from its producing the cross-legged position of a tailor at work), from sartus, past participle of sarcīre, to mend.]]

Teufelsdröckh in Monmouth Street, illustration to Sartor Resartus by Edmund Joseph Sullivan.
Thomas Carlyle's major work, Sartor Resartus (meaning 'The tailor re-tailored'), first published as a serial in 1833-34, purported to be a commentary on the thought and early life of a German philosopher called Diogenes Teufelsdröckh (which translates as 'god-born devil-dung'), author of a tome entitled "Clothes: their Origin and Influence" , but was actually a poioumenon.*[1] Teufelsdröckh's Transcendentalist musings are mulled over by a skeptical English editor who also provides fragmentary biographical material on the philosopher. The work is, in part, a parody of Hegel, and of German Idealism more generally.

*Poioumenon (plural: poioumena; from Ancient Greekποιούμενον, "product") is a term coined by Alastair Fowler to refer to a specific type of metafiction in which the story is about the process of creation. According to Fowler, "the poioumenon is calculated to offer opportunities to explore the boundaries of fiction and reality—the limits of narrative truth."[30] In many cases, the book will be about the process of creating the book or includes a central metaphor for this process. Common examples of this are Thomas Carlyle's Sartor Resartus, and Laurence Sterne's Tristram Shandy, which is about the narrator's frustrated attempt to tell his own story. A significant postmodern example is Vladimir Nabokov's Pale Fire, in which the narrator, Kinbote, claims he is writing an analysis of John Shade's long poem "Pale Fire", but the narrative of the relationship between Shade and Kinbote is presented in what is ostensibly the footnotes to the poem. Similarly, the self-conscious narrator in Salman Rushdie's Midnight's Children parallels the creation of his book to the creation of chutney and the creation of independent India.

Read more: http://www.answers.com/topic/postmodern-literature#ixzz3XSmcxec0


Publication history, themes and critical reception

Sartor Resartus

トマスCarlyle「sの専攻学生の仕事、 Sartor Resartus (意味「再合う」テーラー)、1833-34年に連続として最初に出版されて、ドイツの哲学者の思考そして早い生命の論評があることを意味される「神生ま れる」悪魔肥料をやりなさいように(翻訳するDiogenes Teufelsdrockhh)、「衣服と資格を与えられた巻の著者を電話した: 起源および影響。「Teufelsdröckh 先験論者 musingsはまた哲学者で断片的な伝記材料を提供する懐疑的な英国の編集者によって検討される。 仕事は、一部には、パロディのである Hegelおよびの ドイツの観念論 もっと一般に。



Wikisource この記事と関連している原本を持っている:
Carlyleにひどい悩みが出版業者をのための見つけることをあった Sartor、こうしていくつかの異なった刊行日付は与えられ。 プロジェクトGutenberg例えばない出版されたときに、1831年として日付を与える、しかしそれはCarlyleがそれに書いた日付のようである。 Fraserの雑誌 1833-4年にそれおよびテキスト直列化される成功のために1838年に容積として、多分の出版された フランス革命 (1837年出版される)。
Sartor Resartus 新しい一種の本があるように意図されていた: 同時に事実上および虚構、深刻および風刺的、推測的および歴史的。 それは皮肉にも形式的な構造の「直面させる読者に間真実」が見つけられる問題に自分自身でコメントした。 この点でそれは大いに先に使用される技術を開発する TristramのShandy関係している。 想像「衣服の哲学は」文化が変更の方法、力構造および信頼システムの彼ら自身を再建するので意味が現象、絶えず転移の終わる歴史から得られるべきであることを保持する。 本は非常に含んでいる Fichtean 概念の 宗教転換: 悪を拒絶し、意味を組み立てるためにない神の受諾にしかし意志の絶対自由に基づく。 これは何人かの作家を見るために導いた Sartor Resartus 早いのとして Existentialist テキスト。
Sartor Resartus 最初に風変わりおよび理解できないです一部考慮されたり、しかし賞賛されたアメリカで限られた成功を持っていた、 Ralph Waldoエマーソン、開発にの影響を及ぼす ニューイングランドの卓越性および Herman MelvilleMobyディック 強くCarlyleによって影響を及ぼされた。


2010年12月09日 07:32 AM

Separates can still be smart

The global economy was not the only thing to collapse two years ago. As banking institutions crumbled, so too did efforts to promote dress-down Fridays. Serious times demanded serious suits, and a generation who came of professional age in a world of open necks and chinos suddenly found themselves adrift in their closets without a sartorial anchor. 两年前,并非只有全球经济轰然倒下,随着金融机构纷纷倒闭,旨在推广每周五穿便服的努力也随之折戟沉沙。年景不好时得穿正儿八经的西装,然而,如今穿着开领衬衫与斜纹布裤子成长起来的新锐一代站在衣柜前突然间显得束手无策,因为没有一件能“镇柜”的正装。
“Everything that has happened in formal men’s wear since spring 2009 has been affected by the collapse of Lehman Brothers,” says Robert Johnston, associate editor of British GQ. “Post-economic crisis, men who might not have been caring about their appearance came under pressure to wear suits. Many feel they can’t do that, but simply can’t go casual anymore.” “自2009年春季以来,男士正装所发生的一切都是由雷曼(Lehman Brothers)的倒闭所引发的,”英国男性时尚杂志《GQ》副主编罗伯特-约翰斯顿(Tim Johnston)如是说。“经济危机发生后,原先一直不太在意外在形象的男士感受到了要穿正装的压力。许多男士觉得无法做到,但也明白不能再象以往那样 随随便便地穿休闲装了。”
Happily, there is now a third way: welcome to the age of the men’s wear separate. Though the idea of a jacket in one style, skirt or trousers in another is not new to the female wardrobe, for many men, it’s a liberating notion. 可喜的是,如今有“第三条路”可供选择:男士衣服与裤子分开单穿的时代已然到来。虽说上身着一种风格的西装外套,而下身穿另一种风格的裙装或者裤子对于女性来说并不陌生,但对男士来说,这却是个革命性的理念。
Cue a breed of young contemporary men’s wear labels focused on a more independent way of dressing. Rake, a tailoring brand founded by former Kilgour tailor Clive Derby, focuses on the mix of men’s suit jackets and trousers (prices from £675). “Flexibility is key,” says Derby. “Every single piece is sold as a separate: break them up and they still stand up in their own right as an individual garment.” 需要提示的是:已有针对当代年轻男士的系列品牌上市了,它们突出更为特立独行的服装风 格。由Kilgour前裁剪师克莱夫-德比(Clive Derby)创办的成衣品牌Rake专注于把男士的西装式外套与裤子巧妙搭配(售价675英镑起)。“关键是要灵活多变,”德比说。“每一件(西装外套或 裤子)都是单独销售:西装外套与裤子分开卖后,它们仍是可以堂而皇之单穿的衣服。”
At London tailors Thom Sweeney, separates make up 40 per cent of the business (prices from £380), with the tailors Thom Whidett and Luke Sweeney setting the standard themselves. “It’s hard to dress down and look good and it’s also more complicated,” says Whidett. “We started wearing navy blazers and grey flannel trousers ourselves,” says Sweeney, “and our clients realised they can dress down in a bespoke way.” 在伦敦的汤姆-史威尼(Thom Sweeney) 裁缝店,分开单卖的服装占到了营业额的40%(售价从380英镑起),至于如何搭配穿的标准则由裁剪师汤姆-魏迪特(Thom Whidet)和卢克-史威尼(Luke Sweeney)自行决定。“便装要穿得象模象样不是件容易的事,况且也更为棘手,”魏迪特说。“我们就自己尝试穿深蓝色运动上衣与灰色法兰绒裤子,”史 威尼说,“顾客也意识到便装可以定做。”
Windowpane check jackets teamed with plain narrow trousers (prices from £895) now typify their signature separates, which are “mostly check flannels, not tweeds, as they are lighter weight. An ‘urban tweed’ we call it, not stiff, hairy or heavy,” says Whidett. “We often suggest a guy orders a navy and grey suit, and considers swapping the trousers for two additional looks.” 由Windowpane推出的方格子西装外套搭配素色紧身裤(售价从895英镑起)如 今成了服装单穿的标志性搭配,它们“多数采用方格子法兰绒料(而不是斜纹布料),原因是它们重量要轻一点,我们把它称为 “都市款斜纹布”,摸上去不僵硬,不起毛,看上去也不压抑,”魏迪特说。“我们通常暗示顾客定做深蓝色及灰色的套装,另外再建议对方做两件其它颜色的裤子 和衣服配着穿。”
Patrick Grant, director of the British tailoring brand E Tautz (prices from £595), says, “Separates are the uniform of the ‘new financial industry’ – the hedge fund and private equity areas which set themselves up very deliberately as non-suit-wearing institutions. Their wardrobe helps define who they are in business – ‘We are not the old financial industry, we dress in a different way because we think about our products differently, too.’” 帕特里克-格兰特(Patrick Grant)是英国成衣品牌E Tautz(售价从595英镑起)的主管,他说,“单穿服装如今成了‘新兴金融行业’(对冲基金与私募基金)从业者的统一款式,他们有意把自己塑造成不穿 正装的行业。衣橱诠释了他们在商界的身份和地位——“我们与过去的金融行业不一样,穿得也与众不同,原因就是我们觉得推出的是与众不同的金融产品。”
Take Jim Chanos, a New York businessman, who says, “Most of the time I’m in a suit but increasingly I’m in a jacket and trousers to travel. [I am] the principal of my company [and] I have to set a standard. However, as we are a money management firm, circumstances don’t always lend themselves to a pure suit. The hedge fund world is more casual than banking.” 听听纽约商人吉姆-夏诺斯(Jim Chanos)是怎么说的,“大多数时间我穿正装,但现在我越来越多地是穿着西装外套和单裤去出差。我是公司的头头,所以我得确立公司的规矩。但是,我们是资金管理公司,工作环境有时并不适合穿西装,对冲基金界比银行要更为随意些。”
Similarly, an investment banker who prefers separates to suits, notes: “I don’t want to look too starchy, especially in internal meetings. Separates are ideal if I’m about to travel on a plane and then at the other end I go straight to a dinner at which I need to be reasonably smart.” 同样,有这么一位投资银行家,相对于穿正装,他更喜欢服饰单穿,他指出:“我不想显得太过拘谨,特别是参加公司内部的会议时。如果我马上要坐飞机去出差,到了目的地后直接赴宴去,在那场合我得看上去很精干,这时单穿式服饰就再合适不过了。”
According to Grant, a vogue for European styles such as those of Loro Piana and Cucinelli also plays a part in the rise of the separate. “With a proliferation of very high-end Italian brands comes an overwhelming push towards softness and unconstructed jackets in fabrics such as cashmere, which are just inappropriate for making trousers.” Grant says that customers are building “libraries” of separates that can be mixed with other elements. 在格兰特看来,罗洛-皮雅纳(Loro Piana)与Cucinelli这些欧洲的时尚品牌对衣服单穿的潮流起了推波助澜的作用。“意大利高端时尚品牌在世界各地不断攻城拔寨,此举大大推动了 柔和风格、无衬垫式开士米料夹克的流行,而开士米布料做裤子并不合适。“格兰特说顾客正帮助建立能融入其它元素的单穿式服装的“组合库”。
British department stores have seen a similar evolution in their men’s wear sales. Selfridges formal wear department reports a 48 per cent rise in formal jacket sales and a 27 per cent lift in units of trousers (year on year from 2009 to 2010) compared with a suiting increase of half that amount. 英国百货公司同样见证了男装销售出现的新变化。据塞尔福里奇百货公司(Selfridges)统计:2000年,其正装部的夹克销售额同比增长了48%,各种款式的单裤的销售额同比增长了27%,而西服销售额的增长幅度只有夹克与单裤销售额的一半。
Jason Broderick, head of men’s wear at Harrods, says, “Our trouser business is up 22 per cent, while ties sales depreciated 40 per cent [also year on year, 2009-10]. This says a lot about how men are wearing smart clothes in a less formal way, the suit often being left to evening wear now. When you go into a designer’s showroom to buy and all you see is jackets and trousers, you have to reflect the offering.” 负责哈洛德(Harrods)男装销售的主管詹森-布罗德里克(Jason Broderick)说,“我们的单裤销售同比增长了22%,而领带销售则同比下降了40%。这就清楚地表明了现在男士喜欢穿非正式的亮装,而正装现在通 常只是作为晚礼服偶尔穿一下。当你光顾设计师的专卖店时,你所看到的全是西装外套和单裤,你得好好斟酌一下店家的推荐款式。”
And the offering, according to Zegna chief executive Gildo Zegna, is dictated by the customer. “Our ‘upper casual’ collection [prices from £200], which launched in 2008 was conceived to meet the emerging needs of men who want a less formal look that is as elegant as a suit,” he says. "It now accounts for more than 20 per cent of our global business.” 按照杰尼亚集团的总裁吉尔多-杰尼亚(Gildo Zegna)的说法,推荐款式都是根据顾客的喜好做的。“2008年,我们推出了超休闲系列(售价从200英镑起),旨在满足男士们不断增长的需求,他们 喜欢穿休闲一点的服饰,但又得像正装一样优雅大方,”他说。“如今这占了我们全球业务量的20%还多。”